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The only things keeping you from a really bad day when you are riding are your motorcycle tires and the air in them. Here is what you should know about them if you are considering buying tires, especially discount motorcycle tires.

Most riders realize their bike's sole connection to the unforgiving asphalt is a thin, pliable hoop of rubber encircling the wheel. What many bikers don't realize though, is how crucial their motorcycle's relationship with this rubber really is. As a result they will continue to look for discount motorcycle tires to the point where price is the only consideration. This is a BIG mistake. Essential as these tires are, plenty of riders dont know enough about tire construction. And even the tire companies will admit, many riders buy tires based primarily on price and appearance rather than performance. But even though rubber has very much become a styling element of cruisers, a tire's beauty is deeper than its tread pattern--and what you don't know can be lethal. That doesn't mean that you can't pick up some great deals on discount motorcycle tires, it just means you need to know what you are buying.Here beginneth the first lesson.......

Tire science: Anatomy of a tire

The backbone of a tire is called the carcass. This interior layer consists of overlapping synthetic cords called plies. The angle of these plies will largely determine a tire's strength and flexibility in action, while the entire carcass construction will affect a tire's performance and wear. So, if you are looking for discount motorcycle tires that are going to perform, make sure that you know the carcass construction is up to scratch.

Bias-ply tires, which most cruisers wear, have plies running diagonally from one bead to the other, with alternating plies angled in opposite directions. If you could see through the plies, you would see that the cords form an X.

When a tire is in motion, the part that hits the road flattens out. This area is known as the contact patch. As motion continues, the contact patch travels away from the pavement and returns to its rounded shape. This constant flexing from round to flat causes the plies to rub against each other, generating heat. Radial tires don't heat up as much, but improvements in bias-ply technology have produced bias tires which are as good as radials for cruising. So when looking for quality discount motorcycle tires, make sure you understand the importance of the ply.

The tire section motorcyclists are most familiar with is the tread--it's the outermost region of the tire pressing against the road. Molded from tough rubber, the surface of the tread is crisscrossed with grooves (called sipes), which channel water away from the contact patch to prevent hydroplaning. The entire tread affects cooling, wear and stability, and the big daddy of them all--traction. buying discount motorcycle tires is in my view a little risky if you decide to compromise on the traction you get from the tire.

The Bead

The bead is the inner diameter edge of the tire, comprised of high tensile steel wires. It's the edge of the sidewall where the tire seats against the rim, providing an airtight fit, and it acts as an anchor to the plies. Again make sure you ask the relevant questions about the bead if you ae buying discount motorcycle tires

The Sidewall

The tire's sidewall is the portion of the tire between the bead and the tread. It's flexible enough to soak up bumps, yet stiff enough to limit rollover and protect the side of the tire from road damage. Another important consideration to remember is that bikes with spoked wheels almost always use tube-type tires to keep air from leaking out around the spoke nipples, while bikes with solid or cast wheels are usually shod with tubeless tires. In tubeless applications the inside of the tire is sealed, as is the rim. Again if you are buying discount motorcycle tires, make sure you get the right kind of tire for you wheel.


Make sure you understand waht you should expect from your tires especially when buying discount motorcycle tires

  • Check tire pressure every chance you get. There's probably no simpler procedure that's more important and more ignored by bikers of every stripe. The air, not the carcass, supports the bike, and underinflation is a tire's number one enemy. (Make sure the tires are cool when you take the reading.) For a better traction in wet conditions, increase pressures by about 10 percent. Unsure of what the pressure is supposed to be? Look for a sticker somewhere on the bike. It is also probably on the VIN (serial number) plate near the steering head
  • Pay close attention to alignment--shaft drive bikes have no adjustment, but if you have a chain or belt, check the position of your tires. Proper alignment ensures better handling and longer wear.
  • Although it primarily affects handling, improper balance can also shorten a tire's life. Check it after 500 or 1000 miles of use.
  • The valve stem cap should be securely fastened on the stem, because it's an important part of your tire's sealing system. It'll give you extra security at high speeds, when centrifugal force can conspire to open the valve inside the stem.
  • Most tire manufacturers recommend that the only substance used to keep rubber shiny should be good old soap and water. Many alleged protectants actually promote premature cracking and finish deterioration. Make sure you wipe off any lube, brake fluid or gas promptly, too.
  • visually inspect your tires before you take the bike out you can be using the most expensive tires on the market or the cheapest discount motorcycle tires, it won't make any difference if you set off on a roadtrip with a nail in the sidewall.
  • Avoid potholes and sharp objects on the road that can compromise your tire's integrity. The same goes for curbs.
  • Never run two tires of differing construction. We can't stress this enough, and this rule applies to bias-plies vs. radials as well as tubeless and tube-type tires--even bias-ply vs. bias-belted tires. The results can be disastrous.
  • The grip on a motorcycle tire is at its maximum only after the tread surface has been ridden on, so take it easy in those first few twists and turns.When tyres are manufactured, a lubricant is used to make it easy to get the tire out of its mold. This can reduce the traction and grip of new tires to such an extent, riders have actually spilled at the first corner out of the dealership! One way to overcome this is to take it easy until you get home then rub the sidewalls and tread of the tire with a medium grade sandpaper. (By hand I mean, not while its still on your belt sander!)This plus the required breaking in ride should avoid any unwanted appointments with the pavement!The suggested break-in distance is usually 100 or so miles. After that, check the tire's pressure again! probably has the best range of motorcycle tires I personally have seen online, period.

Motorcycle Superstore has a huge selection of motorcycle tires for any and every motorcycle

check out these related articles...
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